Friday 16 October 2009

Sarah Maple

By Aimee Kapfunde

Is a woman wearing a burka with a badge reading: I love orgasm art? It may not be as intricate as Picasso, but it tells a secret story that “Muslim women enjoy sex too” says artist Sarah Maple. Good art tells tales about the word, nature, people, and civilisation that we otherwise choose to ignore. As Maple prepares for her first solo exhibition in New York, Aimee Kapfunde looks at the controversy surrounding her artistic career.

‘This Artist Blows’ was Maple’s debut show last year at the SaLon Gallery in west London, it was a culmination of work that evocatively explored religion, pop culture, and the idea of self in the western world. The exhibition triggered an extraordinary response vandalism, abusive emails, and even death threats to the Muslim artist and her family. The Islamic community was appalled and condemned her work deeming it as offensive, demining, shameful, and more importantly non Islamic - why the backlash?





The contemporary artist, Sarah Maple is a mix of two conflicting worlds: west meets east, her Father is British whereas her Mother is Kenyan. Raised as a Muslim while attending a Catholic school in Eastbourne, Maple best describes herself as a “Muslim with a white face.” Confusing, yes. Sarah admits to feeling: “Torn between the two [cultures], I really wanted to be a good Muslim ...but because I’m white people never thought I was.”


Amongst other influences and inspirations like the Kate Moss, England, and voyeurism, the cultural and religious conflict of being a ‘good’ Muslim in a western world shapes Maple’s work. Specialising in painting and photography in a series of intimate self portraits, Sarah uses tongue and cheek humor to portray racism, sexism and Islamophobia, issues dominant in modern Britain.


Maple is undoubtedly most famous for her painting entitled: Haram, a self portrait of herself wearing the hijab whilst cradling a piglet. This image is beyond captivating - are Muslims allowed to do this? The Quran preaches the dietary laws in which Muslims must abide by; including abstaining from pork because pigs are viewed as dirty animals, but Maple see’s no harm in cradling a young piglet. This painting is “my favourite” she boasts but, it is the most disliked amongst fellow Muslims: Dr Abdulkarim Khalil, of the Al-Manaar Muslim Cultural Heritage Centre in London, accuses the young artist of purposely trying to offend people; another Muslim leader calls the Haram an “insult in the name of Art.” The criticism continues, Maple is one tick pony “relying purely on being an attractive Muslim”, says an anonymous commentator on Myartspace.com – how wrong they all are.


“When people say I’m taking the piss, it’s so hurtful because my work is so deep rooted with growing up and how bad I felt...my work is deeper than people think”


Maple takes fabricated scenes and situations and uses them as “food for thought” for her audience, pairing things that you wouldn’t assume go together but belong together, for example Islam and sex “why can’t a woman in Islamic clothing love orgasms” she asks “why is this so bad?”


Like many artist’s Sarah yearns to be liked, and appreciates the comparisons made between herself and the art legend Tracey Emin (made by the Independent on Sunday). The Kingston graduate already has a loyal following and is thrilled at the thought of her solo exhibition in New York “where people actually have to pay to view it” she screams – an entry fee, a definite sign of making it.


“I want to be liked...and I don’t want to offend anybody or upset anyone – but sometimes you have to do that to raise a point.” Her work is more than just humorous, people are always suggesting that she should paint “a pig wearing a burka” because that would be hilarious “but I only do things that are intelligent and make valid points”. So as funny as a pig in a burka may be, it has no place in any of Sarah’s work. “I would never do something that would offend someone seriously.”

Sarah’s forthcoming show scheduled for the end of the year is based on retrospect, it will look back at her career so far with a selection of her best photographs and paintings. She hopes the exhibition will include the Haram, a piece which was essential to her development, and first established her as the young, attractive and innovative artist that the world now knows.
At only 23, Maple’s professional career has been short but really jumpstarted after winning the Channel Four award: ‘4 New Sensations’ and The Saatchi Gallery award for the “most talented and imaginative artist graduating in the UK”. The Saatchi winner is decided by a public vote, and Sarah stole this with her brave and blunt poster campaign urging voters: “Vote for me or you’re Racist, Vote for me or you’re Sexist, Vote for me or you’re Islamophobic, and Vote for me or you’re an IslamophobicSexistRacist.”


These three themes are dominant in all of Maple’s work so far, but she assures us that she is a “genre spanner” in her own words, so there is no fear of tired repetition.


“I’m on a journey I’m growing up. I don’t know what I think about things…but I’m making new work all the time.”


Ambition is what drives the young Muslim artist, and amidst all of the abuse and death threats it still means “more to me to be a successful artist than anything else”, she can’t think of another job that she would rather do – and unlike other graduates who have a plan A, B, C, and D to fall back on, plan B for Sarah is simply “suicide” that’s how passionate she is. “I want this so badly” she smiles.


Muslims, Catholics, Africans, or British, the one thing we all have in common is death, it is promised to every one of us. In death Maple aspires to be “the Michael Jackson of the art world.” An icon you either love or hate. “If everyone liked my work it would be boring” she says.
So, is America ready for this straight talking, feminist, Muslim, starlet, whose artwork asks: “Have you wanked over me yet?”

Avant-garde Stars

By Katie Wright

Avant-garde Stars

Having watched him fly the LFW nest earlier this year as recipient of the ANDAM Award, GARETH PUGH, London’s finest young export, continues to do us proud. For his second Paris outing Pugh’s creations looked like they could have come straight out of the wardrobe department of a Tim Burton film i.e. dark and slightly disturbing. Pulled apart, though, this collection is more user-friendly than at first glance. OK, so a dove-shaped headpiece may not be for everyone, but grey drainpipes, Bretagne stripe sweater dresses and peep-toe boots are the kind of staples Pugh has expertly reinvented for spring, plus a few statement coats all in a variety of ashy greys


Following in the footsteps of Pugh, fellow Londoner GILES DEACON admitted he was aware of the commercial potential of relocation to Paris. “I just wanted to do more real-life, obtainable clothes,” he said backstage, and that’s what he delivered. So much so that you could easily have mistaken this collection for, say, Luella, were it not for the typically black humoured Giles overtones, like spider prints and the brilliant shiny plush toy dinosaur bags. I can only hope that it was the same black humour that led to (eek!) corset dresses and (double eek!) kitten heels. Either way, this was yet another designer in nineties mode.

Sure to be cited as an inspiration to our golden boys Pugh and Deacon, MAISON MARTIN MAGIELA has suffered a quite spectacular fall from grace this season. It had been rumoured for months that Margiela himself was no longer at the house, and when confirmation of this departure came in the same week as a dire spring collection, the fashion world was not impressed. Even the party mood created on stage with a finale of tons of models milling about and streamers flying couldn’t detract from the sheer ugliness of some of these pieces, like the super-baggy thigh boots and nappy-ish shorts. I have to admit, however, that I do love the desert island dress below.

Wednesday 14 October 2009

Three of a kind

By Katie Wright - Three of a kind
I have to abandon my Olympic rating system now, since the three next best shows from Paris are essentially inseparable – all beautiful, youthful and slightly cerebral.
Elbar Albaz nailed it yet again at LANVIN. The formula remained the same – puffy 3-D dresses that make it impossible to tell when the folds and clouds of fabric start and end – but my gosh they are gorgeous. As the show went on the gowns (and occasional jumpsuit) became more blingy and sparkly. How did Albaz accessorise his girls? With layers of art deco necklaces, gallons of black eye-makeup and a fierce glare.

How good would it be to be Miuccia Prada’s daughter? She makes a whole new MIU MIU collection every season that’s perfectly pitched for the twenty-something market – somewhere between sexy and witty; retro and forward-thinking. For spring that means high-waisted skirts with tiny cropped jackets, bra tops, sixties sleeves and adorable cat and dog prints.
Like fellow Italian Alberta Ferretti, this season GIAMBATTISTA VALLI went about reinventing the flapper for 2010. This lead to a focus largely below the belt; some great mini-crinis, two-toned feathery hula skirts and, my favourites, shiny black fringed numbers that might have you reaching for cassette tapes to dissemble and recycle.

Tuesday 13 October 2009

McQueen's Atlantis

By Katie Wright
McQueen's Atlantis
If Chanel was the gold standard in Paris, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN took the silver medal. Another triumph of artistic vision and technical excellence, my only criticism would be the issue of wearability. For starters, those huge heels that looked like the models’ feet had been cast in blocks of cement then chiselled someway towards a ballet slipper slowed them to a stuttering glacial pace. This was the first indicator that everything was going to be a bit primeval this season, and for every dress that followed you could almost name the counterpart creature - snake, shark, jelly fish, dinosaur, butterfly… All were compressed into computerised Rorschach-esque prints on dresses that jutted and bulged like armour, but in fabric that moved more delicately than photos suggest.

(You can watch the whole show on McQueen’s website here - http://www.alexandermcqueen.com/int/en/corporate/archive2010_ss_womensp.aspx)


Mossy greens and browns made way for deep blue, black and watery silver, mirrored by the complicated colour-changing stage, as the reason for the show’s title, ‘Plato’s Atlantis,’ became even more obvious. Visually beautiful, fashion purists may not be pleased to hear that the final walk through was also used as a platform to debut Lady Gaga’s new single. Looks like we’re going to have to get used to this kind of increasingly-popular catwalk-commerce hybrid, but when the clothes are this good, it hardly matters.

Monday 12 October 2009

Paris Fashion Week

By Katie Wright
Paris Fashion Week

Making up for Milan, which I think overall lacked enough real stand-out shows, Paris put on quite the extravaganza last week, packed full of shows where the ridiculous catwalk antics were actually matched by the quality of the collections. It’s going to take some time to catch up on the Spring/Summer trends, so stay tuned as I run through the highs, and gloss over the lows, from the city of lights.A prime example of a show where the inclusion of a gigantic hay stack out of which the models appeared and the press-friendly addition of a Lily Allen performance didn’t detract from the clothes was at CHANEL. No prizes for guessing that what emerged from the hay was a rodeo’s worth of country girls (and a few boys) but naturally with Karl Lagerfeld at the helm this was no one-trick show. In fact, there was a hell of a lot to chronicle: chunky clogs; wicker baskets; prom dresses and shoes strewn with rosettes; miles of red, white and blue tulle; matching his and hers cowboy outfits; crop top and miniskirt combos; plus some particularly fantastic hosiery. Rather than country and western, I thought it all added up to a grungier aesthetic, like Courtney Love’s ‘kinderwhore’ look. Whatever the era, it was a damn fine show.

Gemma Slack

By Gussy
Sometimes when times are tough, a girl needs a little something to shield herself from the more objectionable aspects of the big bad world. Something to protect her and give her the power to cut down any obstacles standing in her way. In Spring/Summer 2010, Gemma Slack is helping women to do just that.

This Sheffield born-and-raised designer moved to London to develop a natural flair for art, enrolling in Fine Art at the Chelsea College of Art and Design, before being encouraged to try her hand at fashion design. The switch from painting and sculpting to sewing saw her move to the London College of Fashion, where she studied Fashion Design Technology Womenswear and graduated with a first-class honours degree.

After graduating from the London College of Fashion, Slack spent two years as an apprentice with Gareth Pugh. She first showed off-schedule at London Fashion Week for Spring/Summer ‘09, with a gothic collection of black, textured pieces, inspired by beasts and Nosferatu. She has worked both as a designer and as a stylist for Superbox Productions and T4, and has completed research for Century Films. Her interest in fine art endures, and her work has been exhibited in the United Kingdom, Australia and Korea. She was also recently selected to hold an exhibition at the National Gallery of China.

Gemma Slack is renowned for creating tailored garments from a combination of unusual materials, and Spring/Summer ’09 is a perfect demonstration of her exceptional skill. She was inspired by fetishised super-heroines and metal girls: leather and suede sit side-by-side by aluminium and steel metals to provide modern women with the perfect garb for asserting their very own super-powers. Feminine curves are highlighted via strategic cuts, and modern-day Wonderwomen clad in leather bikinis and metal are taking the world, and their sexuality, into their own hands.

Cut leather drapes seductively and caresses curves like a second skin, and there are echoes of Jean Paul Gaultier’s conical bra – famously championed by the original Sexual Superwoman herself, Madonna. Bodices are reinforced with metal plates and pagoda-like structures protrude over shoulders and hips– the final word in 21st century armour. Über-fem-bots are clad in rockabilly-style circle skirts recast in jet-black studded leather, or shiny silver metal – perfect for the magpie in all of us – while cutaways bare skin, but not vulnerabilities.

It’s certainly a dark collection for Spring/Summer ‘09, but maybe that’s exactly what’s needed – after all, it’s always darkest before the dawn.


All pictures from www.gemmaslack.com

Intermix & Marilyn Minter Exclusive for Breast Cancer

By Lucy Berry


Get involved!
Here at the Ballad HQ we have been swooning over these lovelies and plus they just make us feel good.

Intermix has teamed up with artist Marilyn Minter to create 850 limited edition tote bags which have been printed with a film still from Minter’s provocative eight minute film, Green Pink Caviar (2009). This is her first film and it is driven by her fascination with the body, capturing minute movements of female mouths licking candy and cake decorations. Madonna is going to be showcasing Marilyn’s film during her current tour. The screen-printed, 10-oz cotton totes (image attached) will be available exclusively through Intermix in select stores in the US and through Intermixonline.com for Europe as of October. The totes are being produced in honour of National Breast Cancer Awareness Month and a portion of the proceeds will be donated to the breast and ovarian cancer charity, Bright Pink.

These fabulous exclusive bags are now for sale! Get involved everyone.