TREND REPORT: Shoulders are Sky High

By Charlotte Hoyle

It seems that since time began women have utilized their style to enhance their lives. Every girl has that special dress which makes her feel almost goddess like or a pair of shoes that expresses her take on the world. Most of us wear our hearts on our sleeve literally except for an actual heart it’s a Hermes cuff to die for that simply screams ‘I love luxury!’ …Or something to that degree.

We study each other’s garments because they immediately give the voyeur an idea of the wearer’s personality. The evolution of fashion can span the beginning of time; every era is marked with a new garment that represents women’s place in society and how the world sees them. Which is why it is so interesting that high shoulders have really made an impact, not only on the catwalks they graced last season but also amongst the glitterati and now the high street. What was once considered an eighties faux pas is now a super hot trend being rocked by fashion forward celebrities such as Mary Kate and Sienna Millar, but the female who is really exploiting the fierce acoustics of a sculptural shoulder is most notably Rihanna.

Since the shockingly devastating news of her attack by Chris Brown hit the headlines (along with that horrific picture) she has changed her image to represent an almost untouchable aura. Visor sunglasses, a modern take on a punk esque Mohican, blood red lips and various new tattoos are her signature along with fetish like jewelry, bandage dresses and theatrical sharp shoulders. Taking a leaf out of Daphne Guinness’s book the girl knows how to wear fashion armor.

The surge in futuristic almost costume themed fashion can be seen in any magazine or fashion site worth its salt - even December’s British Vogue, the lifestyle bible known for its ‘safe’ shoots unlike its Italian and French counterparts, features a surreal shoot shot by photographer Emma Summerton in which pale faced ice blonde models adorn interesting horn like headpieces created by designer Noel Stewart.

The trend for tiny waists and HUGE shoulders was seen at Mark Fast, Chanel, Jean Paul Gautier, Alexander McQueen and Maison Martin Margiela to name a few; it is the perfect garment to wear when one wants to be fierce. Fashion armor is back and this time it’s sleeker, sharper and more feminine than its 80’s equivalent. Think Lady Gaga rather than Lady Di and make sure you team the shoulders with a gorg studded leather or python belt to cinch you in.

Like Rihanna it’s the perfect trend to wear when you want to keep the world at an arms length but also on tender hooks whilst they worship you. This trend has to be worn with an air of ‘I’m shit hot’ otherwise fellow fashionista’s wont take you seriously and will think you are simply wearing the latest Topshop. Be ice cool, let the shoulders become you, breathe deep and repeat, ‘I am fierce, I am fierce.’

Here are the high streets offerings:

Soft: £28 ASOS Lace Puff Sleeve Top / Everyday: £40 TOPSHOP Knitted Pleat Dress

Bargain High Fashion: £45 ASOS Purple Satin Top / Splurge: £120 Paul & Joes Sister Rabbit Top

Winter Beauty Trends Forecast

By Amie Kewley

For Autumn/Winter 09/10, apparently, The Brow Is Back. Or Barely There At All, as the case may be. Prada and Balenciaga showed barely-there brows on their catwalks, lifting the look from scary to showy with a slice of punchy lipstick. On the flipside, House of Holland showcased the new Power Brow-strong, defined, and the perfect accessory for the sharp-shouldered jacket as the authoritarian dresscode fails to wane for AW. Beauty trends for winter continue to flurry between extremes: the Goth glam, fantasy beauty (think dark nails, purple lips and waxed-off eyebrows) vs. the two thousand and eighties 2080’s retrograde power dresser. (Rich red lips, brows so sharp you could cut cheese with them) Sandwiched between these looks lies the perennial fresh faced winter glamazon, (glossy, glossy, glossy) and the key to captivate wintry beauty trends is to lift key aspects from all three to make a look your own.

The barely there brow (smothered with foundation as opposed to plucked to the extreme…though some shows sent models sashaying down the runway with their brows removed entirely…perhaps not to be tried at home) is actually fairly achievable if your bone structure is strong and your face able to carry a browless look. It does look bizarre initially, but pulls all emphasis on to the eyes, so highlight them with a decent mascara to open them up and make sure you prevent the look becoming too ghoulish by slicking on a swipe of deep plum lipstick…reach for a gorgeous pillarbox red if purples or blacks are too ‘gothic’ for your liking.

Alternatively, embrace the New Power Brow. This is a credit-crunch-chic way of hitting a beauty trend…no more forking out for waxing, allow your natural brows to grow and fill in the gaps with a brow pencil. A great tip is to use a chunky concealer pencil-if you are fair, invest in one for dark skins, or go a couple of shades beyond your skin tone, enabling you to draw a thick brow line in one severe swipe. A strong brow, properly done, can completely transform the shape of your face-suddenly, you’ll find you have cheekbones and a jawline. Highlight your new sculpted features with a hint of blusher and apply a sweep of neutral gloss to ensure that your brows are the focal point of your look. Work it with confidence (and a Balmain sequinned extreme-shouldered tee, if the budget allows.)

If deep palettes and invisibrows are just too intense, dip into the Goth glam trend with jewel-toned nail varnishes on short, squared off nails. (Keep black and pointy for Halloween only.) Plums, midnight blues, deep glittery greens and dark pinks look very current and also very smart on shorter nails-it’s an office thumbs up (!) as well as looking great for a night out.

Embrace your inner vamp this winter. There are a plethora of products available to don’t be afraid to experiment. The key to remaining the right side of quirky is to focus only on one key area to highlight…and then go for it with unshakeable aplomb. As granny used to say, “Lips or eyes, never both.”

Paris in black & white

By Katie Wright

Paris in black & white

Big news in New York, London and Milan, monochrome was a similarly prevalent story across an array of Parisien collections...
More evidence that the boyfriend blazer will still be relevant in 2010, from DRIES VAN NOTEN. For a new twist, wear it falling off one shoulder.
Add to your To Do list for 2010: 1. Buy cycling shorts 2. Get own name tattooed on neck. Thanks, JEAN PAUL GAULTIER.
Cute leather smock at CELINE.
Even head honcho Hannah McGibbons was all white on the night at CHLOE.

HUSSEIN CHALAYAN cheekily inverts the unbuttoned shirt in knicker-revealing style. ELIE SAAB's LBDs were angular and jewel-heavy. I suspect Swarovski must have been involved.
This look just makes me go OMG I <3 it so bad!!1! Off-the-shoulder sleeves made out of bows + a tiny swishy skirt + sparkly socks + stompy heels = to DIOR for.

Winter Skin Savers

By Aimee Kewley

The end of October signifies many things…the run up to Christmas is all of a sudden upon us, stores on the high street are crammed with lovely new winter stock, and of course, there is the changing of the clocks, which in turn signifies the seasons clicking over…summer is definitely gone and autumn is hot on its heels, being chased, as it is, by the nimble steps of winter.

What does this mean for our skin? The changing seasons can leave their telltale signs on our faces, as we have to adapt to the onslaught of central heating vs. icy wintry blasts, in-car dashboard heaters and knitted hats as we attempt to beat the chill.

There are a few key products to invest in to protect your visage when the temperature plummets. To help battle the elements, skin needs appropriate armour. Constant fluctuations in temperature can really play havoc with your face, and you may find it becomes oilier or drier in the winter as it struggles to find a balance. Keeping your skin hydrated through the day is the one thing that will keep it looking consistently fresh and glowing (and not just from the cold), and as such it is worth investing in a decent moisturiser.

Dermatologist Dr Nick Lowe has recently released his own range of products which I’ve been testing. The Supercharged Day Cream with SPF 15 (necessary, even in winter) is a lovely light cream which leaves skin soft and hydrated. Prep skin first using a cleansing foam or lotion and massage in for all day smoothness.

Another iconic product that no beauty bag should be without is Elizabeth Arden’s 8 hour cream. A bestselling product, the cream is slightly oily, so only a tiny amount is needed, and you can use it to hydrate and protect skin on the face, as well as doubling up as a lip balm or hand cream.

Clarins classic Beauty Flash Balm is also a handbag must have. This moisturizing cream sinks into your skin leaves it brighter and refined. An essential product…use it to prep your skin before applying your makeup.

If you are a little strapped for cash over the winter months, pick up the one beauty product that I can’t live without: a pot of Blistex lip balm. It keeps your pucker looking perfectly smooth and smoochy, and fends off the horrid winter-chapped-lip attacks. And at less than a fiver a pot, it is super affordable too.

How to face up to the elements this winter? Set up your own beauty routine and treat your skin with respect. Our faces are at the front lines of exposure to winter battering, and, of course, the first thing that people notice when they see us. Fresh, dewy, glowing winter skin is what we all strive for…and with a little bit of love, a few supersonic products, and a teensy bit of cheating (reach for the blusher to give pasty skin a gorgeous glow) it is totally achievable.

B.O.S.S*ballad of...street style

By Katie Wright

Chances are in the last few weeks you’ll have done one or more of the following: Turned the heating on; attached lights to your bike; made a last minute decision on opaque rather than flesh tights; been moaned to by a colleague that they ‘can’t believe it’s almost Christmas again.’ As depressing as these mundane annual occurrences are, on the other hand it’s now cold enough to start getting excited about winter coats and jackets. Here’s a look at how a few Londoners are covering up in October.

Young Fashionistas Rule The World

By Anisa Riddell

“A tiny 13 year old dork that sits inside all day wearing awkward jackets and pretty hats. Scatters black petals on Rei Kawakubo’s doorsteps and serenades her in rap. I have nowhere near 4 million readers. Rather cynical and cute as a drained rat. In a sewer. Farting. And spitting out guts.”

Seriously, who talks like that? My new favorite little fashionista, Tavi Gevinson!

Well, it’s just the hottest topic happening here in the States……YOUNG FASHIONISTAS ARE TAKING OVER THE WORLD! Yup, like aliens striking down to take over, the youngsters have taken the fashion industry by the reins, and I gotta say, we kinda like it.

The most notable and youngest fashionista to grace us with her presence is Tavi Gevinson (age 14). This little nugget (as described above) is the most widely known fashion blogging sensation of ‘Style Rookie’ who has created quite the following: close to 4 million followers (and counting).

She’s drawn to designers like Comme des Garcons and Yohji Yamamoto; and is religiously followed by Laura and Kate Mulleavy of Rodarte who initially discovered Gevinson, recently making her their muse for their current collection. “Tavi makes you think about things differently. Makes you see things differently”, said Kate Mulleavy. She had a chance to meet these fashion celebs, as well as many others, during her one week stint at New York’s Fashion Week this year (oh, did I mention she was personally invited to sit front row at the shows? Yeah…must be nice.)

Fashion industry insiders describe bloggers like Gevinson as being on the “frontline of fashion” due to their insightful, hilarious, and often snappy quips that immediately attract readers. Check out these May 2009 blog entries from ‘Style Rookie’:

Sonia Rykiel Spring 2009

sonia rykiellla, ella, ella, ay, ay, ay

Whaddup outdated pop references. Anyway...I loooved Sonia Rykiel. I imagine that for models it must be a very fun show since they can smile and laugh and be a little goofy and not stagger like they are going to murder someone/walk very intently towards the end of a walkway only to angrily turn back." Tavi Gevinson, Style Rookie, May 10, 2009.

Prada Spring 2009

"The trench is a BIT too similar to the Prada one from forever ago and I am not totally on board with the palm tree (guess it makes it more Spring) but I am all for the random mutating shoulder bouquet and the SR initials. And the fancy little number on the far left is calling my name."

"What a lovely thing to come home to after throwing up in gym class! I swear that is as stereotypically "middle school" as it gets." Tavi Gevinson, Style Rookie, May 10, 2009.

Gevinson, amongst other young fashion bloggers is literally touching the hearts of millions, 65 million to be exact: the Millennials. They’re enthusiastic about trends, constantly seek out “status” brands, and are obsessed with image and technology. Wielding Mommy and Daddy’s credit cards, they bombard (and rule) malls and boutique-lined streets. They automatically relate to the young fashion bloggers because essentially they are speaking the same language of these image obsessed young fashionistas. Alternately, the blogs of young fashionistas drive our decisions in purchasing. Their fashion insight is so incredible that they essentially fuel their own trend cycles.

“Thanks to Tavi”, WGSN says, “12 is the new 20.”

My, how great it feels to be young again.

Sex appeal and spacemen

By Katie Wright

Sex appeal and spacemen

BALMAIN’s recent resurgence in popularity has been one of the big fashion stories of 2009 – you can’t open a glossy magazine at the moment without seeing one of those ubiquitous pointy-shouldered dresses. That reign looks set to continue come spring. The shoulders-as-erogenous-zone focus remains, but with more epaulettes and fringe detail rather than just sharp angles. The sex appeal of the dresses is ramped up (if that were possible) with slits and slashes all over the place, while the bodycon tightness is enhanced with goddess draping in dark golden metallics.

Never undeserving of the praise heaped on him, Nicolas Ghesquiere put out a triumvirate of very strong looks at BALENCIAGA. First, skintight black leather silhouettes topped and tailed with astronaut influences – spacesuit-thick hoods on jackets and peep-toe moonboots. Next, a bunch of pale sixties shifts with graphics in bright accent colours. And finally, modern art references; patches of leather pieced together on a minidress and, more literally, angular brush stroke prints that I think the Cubists would approve of.

Unusually, Karl Lagerfeld’s eponymous line was a more sober affair than his Chanel collection, all sleek lines and cinched waists in mostly black and white. It was far from humourless though – does look 23 (below) remind you of anyone?