Tuesday 29 September 2009

Battle of the Boys - LFW

By Katie Wright

Christopher Kane took London by storm in 2007 and has been impressively consistent ever since. Did he maintain that momentum for Spring ’10? Why, yes he did. Kane’s genius lies in the way he takes a starting point and builds a collection around it that veers off-piste in just the right quantities. The starting point here was religious cultism and Lolita, apparently. Cue tablecloth-check dresses slit up both thighs; baby- pink and blue chiffon overlays; and high necklines. Where tailoring featured it was decidedly mannish. There was also a dose of corset/bust detailing that’s been quite prevalent elsewhere this week.


Henry Holland is another hot young thing that took London by storm with his first collection, and unfortunately that’s where the favourable comparison ends. House of Holland usually featured a starting point (slogans, spots, stripes) that is stuck to religiously but this time round there’s a hotchpotch of ideas that don’t make a coherent whole. To be fair to the lad, the very literal ‘house’ prints are cute, but the denim is too much like prison uniform, complete with electric chair straps. Instead of looking to the future, this collection screams now.

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